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Be Responsible, Dispose of Used Engine Oil and Coolants Properly

January 31st, 2009

Being responsible to the environment is your duty. Disposing of used engines liquids such as engine oil and anti-freeze coolants is not only an environmental responsibility, it is also a public health responsibility. Most fluids found in your vehicles engine compartment are poisonous to humans, and our pets.

I realized I did not mention this in any earlier posts and I should have. I should have mentioned petroleum waste disposal in the post on changing your oil at home. You can bet that environmental responsibility is married to hi ethics in a repair shop. You should always do your business with a business that meets these challenges.

Every lubrication joint and engine repair shop or any business that produces toxic waste is legally required to dispose of those wastes properly. The government has agencies that keep an eye on toxic wastes disposal. If you are dumping waste oil be prepared to have a GIANT fine levied on you. Most garages and auto parts stores will gladly accept your waste oil or coolant and most cities have a central collection location for petroleum wastes disposal.

Even a simple lawn mower oil change on the driveway produces enough petroleum wastes to create an environmental problem. Every professional automotive repair shop should follow waste disposal rules with strict rigidity. It is my opinion that this should be a hard fast requirement for consumers when choosing a repair shop.

Using a company that embraces this paradigm such as GotEngines.com as your source for finding an engine or transmission is a great way of knowing you are dealing with a legally and morally ethical company. There is much more qualified and real-world useful information on the GotEngines.com Blog.

Questions and comments are welcome. All advise is free and in terms you will understand, if you don’t understand then let me know, call our professionals at 1-888-344-8044.

Related Post: How To Choose a Qualified and Competent Engine Shop.



Good Mechanics Deserve Your Respect.

January 30th, 2009

Do you have any idea what it takes to be a mechanic or technician now a days? It takes a lot more than people give us credit for. A top level mechanic has equally good or better manual dexterity and smarts than a brain surgeon. No joke. Do you understand the theory of how an engine operates or a transmissions hydraulic system operates?

A top level technician has to be very literate in order to read and comprehend instructions in order to diagnose and repair your car. Good basic mathematical abilities are critical as well. The best diagnostic equipment is useless unless your technician is well trained in using it, and that takes more than a few days. You certainly wouldn’t want a doctor who couldn’t read an x-ray or interpret MRI results, or recognize the dangerous values in a blood test results.

The real hero in any repair shop is the qualified diagnostician. The owners of the best automotive repair shops send their top technicians to various tech schools and seminar training courses. They are certified and are well qualified to teach the new repair procedure or how to diagnose a problem or just to keep up to date on the latest repair info and news.

It’s too bad most folks think “grease monkey” when you mention that your engine is having a problem and it needs repair. It is true that if you need a used engine, installing it is greasy. That does not mean stupid. If the mechanic is not looking for the reason your engine has failed then you are being set-up for another failure. What if it was a bad radiator or cooling system that caused your engine failure and that was not addressed? What do you think would happen? Your new engine would fail the way the last one did.

You can see that even the technician who does the replacement or rebuilt engine job needs to be quite observant of the overall condition of anything engine related. You may have leaked all of the engine oil out because one of the lines going to the engine had a small hole in it. You know what would happen if that problem was missed? Band-Ouch-Explode.

When you find a shop you can trust hold that shop near and dear. You want to buy an engine that comes from a quality company like GotEngines.com. the last thing you need is an inferior product because it will usually cost more in the long run. Take a look at the whole GotEngines.com Blog and become an educated consumer concerning some of the must-do maintenance necessary to keep your car running like a Rolex watch.

As a former business owner I can attest to how wonderful it is to do business with a company like GotEngines.com, they make any business look good to say the least. Call anytime for free advise 1-888-344-8044.



Is That Water in My Engine Oil?

January 29th, 2009

This is a common question that gets asked a lot, it was sent to us to be answered so we decided to address it.

Question: A friend of mine has a chevy tracker, yr 2000 with a 2.0 suxuki samuria 2.0 engine which has water in the oil, when we remove the dip stick it has this yellow to rusty foam it’s entire length can you give me some advise? Respectfully, Rodney XXXX

Water in oil or oil in the radiator, it makes no difference, you got a potentially serious problem. There are only so many ways for water to get into your engine oil. The least probable is that someone put it in there, so lets not even discuss that one.

Lets answer this question. Yellow to rusty foam is not a good thing to hear. Without running the proper tests we can only speculate, no realistic way to prove any problem on the phone or internet without seeing the car. With that being said, rusty, yellow and foam indicates that somehow the radiator fluid got inside the engine. We eliminated sabotage already, so the radiator water or coolant appears to be a water or liquid mixed in with the oil. The color of most anti-freeze coolants is yellow, that indicates coolant is in the oil, rust would indicate the coolant system has not been maintained well enough. Rust should never be in your radiator. The foam indicates the engine has a “blown head gasket”. Which usually means you need a rebuilt engine.

This can be proven with the correct tool which is a cooling system pressure tester.
With this tool one can pressurize the entire cooling system which includes the engine to prove the point. As a general rule, when there is foam in the oil, a breach has been formed some where in an area of the engine where the oil and engine coolant separately flow through the engine channels.
The foam indicates a bad head-gasket, bad head or a gasket of some sort has failed, and the two fluids are mixing and causing foam because engines have internal pressures in them called compression or back-pressure.

After a qualified repair shop diagnoses the problem you will be able to make a choice on repairs. My experience tells me that unless the vehicle is fairly new it does not pay to repair the engine. Particularly when lack of maintenance is obvious to other systems like the cooling system and perhaps other areas.

At this point it would be a good idea to discuss your options in terms of a rebuilt engine. This is why to read our GotEngines.com blog. We consistently outperform every other rebuilt engine supply company by listening to you and helping you decide the best engine replacement choice for you. 1-888-344-8044

Don’t forget to ask GotEngines.com Blog any question that you want a real-world no BS answer to, make a comment and check out our blog for all types of automotive engine information in terms you will understand.
Enjoy.



Buy a New Car or Replace The Engine?

January 28th, 2009

With the economy in complete disarray and people losing jobs or taking jobs that pay less than before makes decision making all the more important. Credit is harder to come by and money in general is ‘tight’ to say the least.

My experience has taught me that when one has an engine failure or any catastrophic automotive car failure the knee jerk reaction is that “I don’t have the cash to repair this, I think I’ll buy a new car. No down payment, no cash out of my pocket.”

Unless your car is really old or a complete piece of junk needing many more expensive repairs, I find this type of thinking very ‘short termed’. Most likely fixing the car is in your best ‘long term interest’.

What I mean to say is that would you rather buy a new car for $10 grand or $20 grand or $60 grand and be mired in a loan for 4-7 years or spend considerably less and either owe nothing or something like $1500.00 to $3000.00 for a replacement engine? To buy a used car can be the worse thing that ever happened to you, since you never know what is really wrong with it or the problems that are causing it to be sold.

There are several choices in replacement engines available:

#1. The pros and cons of second hand or used engines.
#2. Deciding if a remanufactured, rebuilt, reconditioned engine is your best choice.
#3. Is a new engine in your future?

My wife and I both drive what is called an ‘older vehicle’. I drive a 1988 GMC 1 ton pickup that is flawless running and looking, I bought it new. My wife drives a 2000 GMC Safari van that we bought new. Why do you think we still own them, one thing is they are payed for and insurance is less expensive for ‘older rides’. But the real success is my undying loyalty to preventative maintenance like changing the engine oil with the best oils and staying on top of every possible maintenance item on the vehicle. This includes cooling system maintenance and most everything on the vehicle including things that have nothing to do with an engine. Both vehicles are good to go to Alaska tomorrow if need be(3000 miles one way from Florida)because I never put myself in a compromising spot, if I even think there is a problem, it gets looked at and fixed. It is a lot less costly than breaking down on the road and paying a ransom to tow your car to a shop in the middle of nowhere that you never heard of.

The math is simple $2000.00 beats $20000.00 any day, that is a no brainer. You can feel good and very smart that you went to GotEngines.com and talked to a specialist about solving your engine problem. We also encourage you to scope the whole GotEngines.com Blog for more helpful information.
Call us at 1-888-344-8044.



How To Choose a Qualified and Competent Engine Shop.

January 27th, 2009

These days it is really getting hard to figure out what repair shop will be in your best interest if you have an engine problem. Since most folks are fairly naive about what to look for or listen to when choosing a place to replace an engine that I wanted to lay out a few guidelines. Since no disrespect is intentionally being directed at any particular shop, I only want to talk about what to look for. Not what you should not look for.

If calling some shops is your first move, I would recommend having a list of questions handy and doing a lot of analytical listening to the shop owner or manager. In my opinion the most important thing is to listen closely to the answers provided by the person on the other end of the phone line. A qualified shop owner will help you understand the terms being used so you can make a better decision on exactly what engine is right for you.

Listen to how sincere the other person is about their service and the way you are being addressed as a customer. I think in most cases a shop can sell ‘itself’ over the phone by being professional, sincere and honest to you. A referral from a friend that had a good experience is the best recommendation of all. In any case, you may narrow your choices down to a few shops. With that in mind it would be a good time to visit the shops and see what they look like and talk more with the person in charge.

At our shop we had no secrets to building customer confidence. We always treated our customers just like I want to be treated when I enter a repair facility or any professional service.

#1. It is nice to be greeted by your name and that the manager knows your problem, if you called first.
#2. A clean and organized shop is more efficient and simply gives a good impression.
#3. Naturally if the shop is clean and safe it is great to be given a tour of the shops equipment, facility and technician/s who will work on your vehicle.
#4. Be given as much time as you the customer needs to understand the suggested repair and why it is the repair that suits you the best.
#5. No pressure or obligation if you need to think about it or need to check out another business.
#6. Offer you a ride or taxi home if you leave the vehicle.
#7. Sign your invoice and check the “I want a written estimate” section too.

For reasons I’ll explain another time, a overly busy shop is not always a good sign for choosing a facility.

Personally, I would also check with the Better Business Bureau and the Division of Automotive Affairs that most states have for reporting fraud, poor repairs, etc., these are good indicators of how long they have been in business and how well they have satisfactorily served their customers. The longer the better in most cases. Don’t discount a newer or young shop just because it is new, if you get the right vibes, than you may have a diamond in the ruff.

I don’t think lots of shallow diplomas all over the walls are imperative, working at an automotive repair shop that sends their technicians to an educational institute or a school that keeps one up to date on their specialty is important and shows the owner is right on top of things. A diploma from a business school is great, you may be the best mechanic in the world, but if you can not run a business you will have problems.

The best repair or replacement shops will use the best products they can find. Lots of engine shops use GotEngines,com because of the variety of engines and warranties available and the fact that they are a Nation Wide Company, so no matter where you travel too, you will never be stranded.

Don’t forget that if the shop owner listens well, then they can really fit you with what fits your needs best. Without seeing the car and talking with you there is no way to determine if you might qualify best for new engine which has many advantages as opposed to a used engine. And then you have other options such as a reconditioned engine, a rebuilt engine or remanufactured engine, which are all the same thing if you boil it all down.

GotEngines.com Blog has some good maintenance tips on the different types of engine oil, synthetic or conventional oils and why you should maintain your cooling system.

If you need help with a problem, you can be assured that the guys that answer the phone at GotEngines.com can provide you with the right solution. Call now at 1-888-344-8044. Enjoy.



Synthetic Engine Oils Versus Conventional Engine Oils..

January 26th, 2009

In the old days, people living in cold climates put in a thinner oil for the winter with a “W” or cold temperature-viscosity rating. Although they poured better at low temperatures, straight-viscosity “W” oils, in turn, didn’t do a good job of protecting engines once they reached normal operating temperatures, so they weren’t recommended for sustained high-speed driving. The oil industry developed “all-season” multiviscosity oils to solve the problem, but some of the early products didn’t hold up under heavy-duty operating conditions, tainting the reputation of multiviscosity lubricants.

Yet today’s modern oils are vastly improved over those of 20 years ago. For oils that meet the current “SJ” service designation, viscosity breakdown is no longer a significant problem, thanks to modern formulation technologies and viscosity enhancers. Auto manufacturers have also redesigned their engines for tighter clearances and instituted precision machining techniques that take advantage of thinner oil to deliver improved fuel economy through reduced friction.

Like the OEMs, the racing sector has discovered that friction reductions plus precision tight clearances yield greater efficiency and more power. Racers also know that most engine wear occurs at start-up, so it’s critical that engine parts receive proper lubrication as soon as possible–hence the need for an initially thinner, so-called “winter” oils. Today, few racers run a single-viscosity motor oil.

Synthetic oils, pioneered in the ’70s by Mobil and Red Line and now available from most major oil companies, taking the all-season, multiviscosity approach as far as possible. Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren’t synthetic or artificial in the sense that they’re manufactured out of whole cloth–they still have the same natural ingredients found in “real” oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like chemically to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with unique characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids–polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics. Most new engines come from the factory with synthetic oils. If you ask me, I change even my used engines to synthetic oils, simply because it rules.

Because a synthetic oil’s molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines “at well over 400 degrees F”; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really concerned when a conventional exceeds 260 degrees F. Interestingly enough, conventional oils can breakdown and catch fire at temps. over 260 degrees F., where the synthetics, as stated earlier can go well over 400 degrees without breakdown or catching fire.

Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils. In fact, synthetic oils are now available with viscosity ratings as low as 0W-30, as in Mobil 1′s new Tri-Synthetic blend or Castrol Formula SLX. These oils flow more than seven times faster than a conventional 5W-30 motor oil during initial start-up, yet at normal operating temperatures act like a regular Grade 30 oil.

An 0W-30 synthetic oil is capable of pumping easily at -62 degrees F and flowing at even lower temperatures. Conventional oils are essentially frozen solid at that temperature, so there’s simply no conventional equivalent to this new grade. There are 5W-30 conventional and synthetic oils, but even here, the synthetic has a proven advantage: Mobil 1′s 5W-30 will pump at -58-degrees F, compared to about -35-degrees F for a conventional oil.

However, thinner oil also translates to lower oil pressure: The 0W-30 oil developed 10 psi less than the baseline 20W-50. Only 46 psi was on tap at 6,200 rpm–kind of shaky as most gearheads like to see at least 10 psi per 1,000 rpm.

This is not necessarily true, excessive oil pressure is not necessary for good lubrication, in fact to much oil pressure can cause failures due to the fact that the oils runs so quickly through the engine that it fails to lubricate properly. The engines ran fine with a little less oil pressure, and the bearings looked great on teardown, verifying synthetic manufacturers’ claims that their products’ greater shear strength more than makes up for lower viscosity. Is 10 hp and 15 lb-ft worth paying two to four times more for a quart of oil? Or the potential for extended engine life? You bet it is, not only does your engine lubricate much better, but you can extend oil changes from 3000 – 4000 miles to 6000 – 8000 miles, safely. The moral here is that you will save money in the big picture of things. there will be less problems with your motor and it will last many more miles.

GotEngines.com encourages the usage of superior lubricants. A lot of engines are purchased because of oil failure, so this is not a good place to cut corners, as it is not a good idea to ignore your cooling system. The GotEngines.com/blog is full of critical engine saving tips. Read and Enjoy.



Engine Oil Choices Prove To Be a Slippery Subject…

January 25th, 2009

When one goes to purchase engine oil for their car, how do you know which one is correct? Or for that matter, how would you know if the lubrication joint used the proper engine oil? There are so many different quality ratings for the various levels of slipperiness of oils which are rated by the API Service (American Petroleum Institute). They include such catagories as SG/CD, SA, SM, SF, SB, SE, SC, just to list a few options.

Click Here For an API Engine Oil Ratings PDF File.    'courtesy API'.

The API site is full of engine oil answers and information regarding every aspect of oil.

The chart is confusing anyway, to simplify the matter, the letter combination’s are the performance ratings from the American Petroleum Institute. If you have a 1993 ford with a 4.9 liter engine, the best oil made at that time was rated SG. Therefore that is what Ford called for. Newer more stable and slippery oils have designations such as SM which is the best performing oil as of today.

As a matter of interest, oil designations that start with S are for gasoline engines, and those that start with a C are for diesel engines. No matter what year or make, use the best oils available that are recommended by the manufacturer. This is not a good area to save money, oils nowadays have a tremendous job to do with the extra heat and contaminants from the combustion process generated by modern hi-efficiency engines.

Realistically speaking, it certainly is not in the best interest of a company that sells engines to expound on the virtues of better maintenace, but quality company’s such as GotEngines.com know that success comes from information/education. We want our readers and customers to know that you are welcome to visit our GotEngines.com/blog or call anytime for engine advise.

One last thing, a question I get asked a lot is why use a synthetic engine oil? What is the difference in regular oils and synthetic? I’ll touch on this in our next post. It is a story in itself. Enjoy.



What About The Cooling System and Radiator?

January 24th, 2009

The cooling system is a critical component in the engine management system. More so than ever. Cars built from the late 80′s started to be set to run at higher temperatures around that time frame. The reason was mainly to help curb emissions, although engineers found out hot engines also run more efficiently. Here is something not to many people know, including professional mechanics. A hot engine runs better. I don’t mean an overheated engine, but an engine that runs about 190 degrees to 210 degrees is perfect. It holds true for even new cars.

Car or automotive engines run at almost the borderline of running too hot, meaning that an unmaintained cooling system is a time bomb and if the car is older, time for a rebuilt engine if it overheats badly. Fortunately these systems have good methods to keep the engine temperature stabilized. The basic system design has not changed over many years, although it has been improved. Allowing more reliability and better stability of engine temperature over a large variation in temperatures outside.

A cooling system consists of a water pump, radiator, a thermostat, cooling hoses, heater hoses, radiator cap, cooling retrieval tank, engine freeze plugs and a fan clutch to keep things cool. Sometimes the fan is electric and some of them are thermostatically controlled, either way they are supposed to automatically run when the engine reaches a certain temperature.

Here is a bit of advise, use the proper anti-freeze and summer coolant. Check with the manufacturer about what type. A lot of have people have had to make a strategy to buy another engine by using the wrong anti-freeze.

Suffice it to say that a properly maintained cooling system is of the utmost most importance. Other than the expense involved in a failure, it causes a lot of lost time and frustration. GotEngines.com has an easy approach to taking care of your car engine. Make maintenance important and Read the rest of this entry »



Are You Thinking Of A Brand New Engine?

January 23rd, 2009

Lots of people don’t even look at the option of buying a Brand New engine. The word ‘new’ just scares people to death, compared to words like: used engine or rebuilt/reconditioned/remanufactured/overhauled engine. The educated, qualified consumer would absolutely look into a new engine.

Call GotEngines

Call GotEngines

What exactly is a new engine? I know what a new engine is, but when I Googled “new engine” or “new auto engine” and “new car engine” most of the top responses included “used” and “rebuilt” engines. Not to many new engine suppliers. A New Engine is brand spanking new just like the engine that comes in a brand new car. Every part of the engine is new, unused, virgin in every sense. A new engine has been tested on a machine called a dynomometer at the engine factory. Meaning it has been run for about ten minutes to check the vital signs such as oil pressure, leaks, excessive noise, set the specifications and test it’s power. This is only for test purposes, then it is crated up and ready for delivery.

The point is that it seems like it is harder to find a new engine than the other options available. Experience has taught me that there are only so many places that actually manufacture new engines, such as car manufacturers and a host of smaller companies that have the extensive tools and special machines needed to make an engine from scratch.

A new engine is a great replacement option for the owner who is satisfied with the job the engine has done in terms of performance and reliability. Let me recommend this before I go any further, if you want a new engine than save a bunch of time and frustration by calling GotEngines.com at 1-888-344-8044 or go to their website and talk to a person that knows their stuff. Simply put GotEngines.com has taken extensive time to locate the best new engine companies, evaluate them for quality and be prepared to sell you one without spending excessive time calling or surfing the internet.

GotEngines.com understands that you need to get to work to make money, their intention is to fit you up as fast as possible in order to get you on the road again. After being in the business myself of rebuilding transmissions for 25 years, it is great to find one supplier that has it all. What is better than that? That the supplier thinks like you, how can I give my customer the highest quality product at the most affordable price.

Before you start to worry about cost, you may want to ask about a new engine, in many cases you can buy a new engine for surprisingly affordable prices. I have seen them for sale at times for the same price of a used or remanufactured engine. Read more of our blog for the information you need to make qualified decisions and call us if you need more advise. As always, we want your comments and input, more important is to call us if you need answers, they are free. Good luck and enjoy.

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Related Articles:
What’s The Difference Between Rebuilt, Reconditioned, Remanufactured and an Overhaul?

Pros and Cons of Second Hand or Used Engines



What’s The Difference Between Rebuilt, Reconditioned, Remanufactured,

January 22nd, 2009

and an Overhaul regarding engines? Stumped? I bet a lot of people are. Lets get down to the task of sorting these terms out. We discussed the pros and cons of used, pre-owned and second hand engines yesterday.

rebuilt-engine

rebuilt-engine

Realistically speaking, as far as I’m concerned this is easy to demystify because all of the terms mean the same thing in the automotive field. My observations over the years as an automotive transmission shop owner/operator was that the terms mentioned in the title of this post are used by different places to make what they are doing sound more important than a rebuild or an overhaul.

Lets see what the answers.com defines these terms as:
Rebuild:
#1. To build again.
#2. To make extensive structural repairs on.

Reconditioned:
#1. to restore to good condition, especially by repairing, renovating, or rebuilding.

Remanufactured:
#1. Remanufacturing is a process where a particular product is taken apart, cleaned, repaired, and then reassembled to be used again.

Overhaul
#1. To examine or go over carefully for needed repairs.
#2. To dismantle in order to make repairs.

You can see the similarities in there respective meanings. Simply put this is what I consider an engine that has been rebuilt, remanufactired, reconditioned or overhauled to include: (make sure you have your customers permission first).

A. Competent removal of engine from vehicle checking mounts and all related parts such as the cooling system, belts, hoses, and all accessories.

B. Complete disassembly and clean up using an environmentally “green” parts cleaner.

"green" parts-washer

C. Detailed inspection of all parts.

Note: Here is my problem with all of the various names being thrown around. Every shop or technician may have a different idea of what to replace or repair when we ‘tag’ a job with one of these service names. Some shops think that just changing the bad parts is enough to fulllfill their obligation. We know that this not an honest representaion of the terminology and a manipulation of sorts. As far as I’m concerned there is only one way to do any of the assorted jobs like rebuild, remanufacture, recondition or overhaul an engine.

D. Obviously we would trash the damaged parts, but lets get a bit deeper, what about the old parts that are still good, what do we do? As far as I’m concerned we leave no old parts such as bearings, seals, gaskets, pistons, timing chain and more parts you may not know are even in an engine.

Note: By not replacing ALL of the wearable parts, good or bad, we have not fullfilled our obligation to provide in good faith a fully rebuilt (or any of the other terms mentioned) engine that ALL the parts have been replaced, including the machine work necessary to “square’ things up.

Machine work includes boring the cylinders to fit NEW pistons, making sure all specifications are machined to the proper dimensions and a good old fashioned valve job. Sometime there is more machine work, but this is usually the better part of machining for success.

To put it simply a remanufactured engine is a good choice if your engine is a candidate for it. Only a qualified repair shop can tell you that. It is also a good opportunity to get some upgrades installed at the time of reconditioning for a specific application. GotEngines.com supplies engines remanufactured the proper way, which is why our warranties consistently out perform our competition. The warranty you get speaks volumes as to how much confidence the remanufacturing company has in it’s work.

Tomorrow we will cover New engines and what advantages they offer. Please sign up for a free email subscription to GotEngines.com/blog to stay updated on car matters. If you have comment or questions concerning what we discussed today, by all means leave it in the comment box. Enjoy.