In an ideal world, an engine can last forever. Well, not that long, but people squeeze 300,000 miles and more out of engines. Being mostly automotive type gasoline engines. Diesel engines get even longer lifespan, especially the huge motors in big trucks. They are designed to go 500,000 miles or more with proper care.

Care is the keyword. Not just changing the engine oil regularly either. The cooling system has to be up to snuff. If the engine overheats, serious problems can occur which may not show now, but will take lots of life off the engine. If you overheat the engine, shut it off ASAP, have the problem fixed ASAP, and change the engine oil.

Remember, synthetic engine oils last longer and therefore the engine lasts longer. Synthetics can handle heat better and hard usage better, simply put, the car manufacturers would not use synthetic oil if it did not add a degree of insurance.

Other items that kill engine life are things like not changing the oil enough. Or operating with a dirty air filter in a dusty area. If you choose not to use synthetic oils, make sure you keep the engine full of oil and change it every 3000 miles. With synthetics, you can go 5000 miles between changes. The cost of synthetic oil is more, but it pays off more than just making oil change intervals longer, because it is slipperier, the engine lasts longer.

Doing the right maintenance gives you the best chance of a long and frustration free motor life. If you take my advise concerning maintenance and overall vehicle care, you have good odds of going 200,000 miles without a major problem happening. Of course, it’s important to know if you need to change your oil sooner if it’s a commercial vehicle in a hot climate.

On another note, I have scene people blow an engine up almost immediately by abusing it beyond it’s purposes. Should you be reading this because you have an engine failure that seems premature and want to speak with someone about why your motor failed, and what can be done about it is to call GotEngines.com at 1-888-344-8044 and speak with a professional.

If you need another motor, we have a terrific selection of rebuilt engines, remanufactured engines, used engines and new crate engines. We have an engine to suit your needs. Take the time to call GotEngines.com now for all the free information you can absorb. 1-888-344-8044.

The extra pressure not only adds combustion waste & contaminants to the oil, but it breaks it down faster because of the heat. Non diesel oils will work in a diesel engine, that’s true, but you sacrifice an awful lot of reliability and dependability. The diesel engine oil must disperse the contaminants, keep them from forming harmful engine deposits while maintaining its viscosity and providing wear protection.

I’m a believer in lubrication, and for the price of good regular maintenance, why would anyone let it slide, or use the wrong products?

It is not how nice the bottle looks, or how much advertising you see on TV about particular brand of oil, it’s the application codes written on the bottle that counts. Specifications and approvals make the playing field level for everyone. There are two established testing bodies.

The API [American Petroleum Institute], and the European equivalent, the ACEA [Association des Constructeurs Europeens d'Automobiles - which was the CCMC]. There is no reason for the average person to have heard of either of them, but their stamp of approval will be seen on the side of every qualified bottle of engine oil.

The API classifications are different for gasoline and diesel engines:
1. For gas motors, listings start with ‘S’ [meaning Service category], followed by another code to denote standard. ‘SN’ is the current top grade, which recently replaced ‘SM’ and ‘SL’. ‘SH’ will be found on most expensive oils, and almost all the new synthetics. It’s an upgraded ‘SG’ oil which has been tested to take more heat and abuse.
2. For diesel oils, the first letter is ‘C’ [meaning Commercial]. ‘CJ’ is the highest grade as of now,[CJ-4 for heavy-duty] but ‘CH’ is the most popular and is very adequate for most vehicle applications.

Does that answer your question? I know lots of folks don’t run the right oil in their vehicles. The only one being fooled is the owner, the extra cost for the right oil pays for itself over and over.

If you happen to be reading this article as you are looking for a replacement diesel engine, call GotEngines.com now and get as much information as you need, that’s free.
1-888-344-8044.

For your information, we offer All General Motors LS2 Engines for Sale everyday of the week. Call now if you already know what you need, or need more information.

The current LS2 engine is used in plenty of General Motors vehicles. Applications range from the Pontiac GTO, 2005 and 2006 Corvette, The Chevrolet SSR, 2006 and 2007 Cadillac CT-S and 2006 to 2009 Chevy Trailblazer. The same engine used in the Trailblazer is used by the Saab 9-7X.

This engine is also widely used by Holden Vehicle Special Vehicles. You can read more about said vehicles here. I have little or no experience with Holden. But you may own one and we can help you out.

This engine is of 6.0 liters in displacement, and from the LS engine family. LS engines were originally for trucks only, but they were so well mannered, GM spread them around a bit after finding out how good this new design of a classic old engine is, AKA the “Small Block Chevy”.

The 2 other engines referred to as LS2 are as such:
1. 1973 Super Duty 455 cubic inch Pontiac V8 engine. The largest engine made by Pontiac. Used in the GTO and Trans Am. A variety of versions were made, some for the luxury cars too. Torque was the emphasis on this engine.
2. 1985 Oldsmobile V8 Diesel engine. Called an LS engine, it is a V8 diesel engine only used in 1985 in the Olds 98, Buick Park Avenue and Cadillac DeVille. That was a long time ago, but those cars were front wheel drive if you remember. Not of the currently popular FWD setup called “transverse” design.

Another fact you may be interested in. We offer a good Choice of engines too. By offering a choice, we can service all of our customers. Our bestsellers are remanufactured engines. We encourage Remanufactured and/or Rebuilt engines because they are GREEN. They are recycled so to speak. Instead of being trashed, and leaching oil and coolant into the soil.

We also sell used engines, new crate engines and remanufactured crate engines. Our new crate engines are exactly the same ones you get from the dealer, except they cost 40 percent less. No master what choice you make, it will be a good one. If a crate engine is of interest to you, just call about them for more details. 1-888-344-8044.

Take some time to call an engine replacement expert, allow us to explain everything you need to know in terms that make sense. A wise consumer makes better decisions. Call GotEngines.com now at 1-888-344-8044.

Selling Ford Big Block Engines at Low Prices

I am a big fan of big cubic inch motors, although they are not very fuel efficient, they have a spot in the market, even thought the big engine market is shrinking. GotEngines.com is Selling Ford Big Block Engines at low prices in various forms everyday, one to meet everyone’s needs. Call now, 1-888-344-8044.

The first big block Ford engines were made from 1958 to 1967, called the MEL engine series, with “wedge” style combustion chambers it produced lots of torque. Here they are: 383 CID [cubic inch dimension], 410 CID, 430 CID and 462 CID. This was when gas cost 29.9 cents a gallon, and you could get 100 plus octane gas too.

There are even a few mostly experimental big blocks from the 1930′s and ’40′s Ford messed around with. Two different V12 engines. But concentrating on newer versions is my goal today. The old big block Fords were like all of the engines of said period. Gas hogs, polluters of the environment, and fun to drive!

Should you be interested in an older Ford engine, our selection includes rebuilt older Ford engines. We don’t get involved in the used engines for the oldest model motors. For the the oldest engines, often we cannot find reliable used engines that meet our requirements. We don’t sell “Junk Yard” engines.

Ford has a nice lineup of big diesel engines. Generally speaking, truck diesel engines would be considered big block motors because of the size of them. Although, the term is usually reserved for gasoline engines.

It’s way to much work and time to list the intricate details of every Ford engine considered a big block. Ford’s history is full of some of the most radical, huge engines from the ’60′s through ’80′s. And some of the fastest muscle cars built by Ford had some crazy big and bad engines during the gas guzzling, go fast era.

Called vintage car engines, we stock new/remanufactured crate engines for owners of vintage muscle cars, which are perfect for original equipment installations. Crate engines are also perfect for commercial vehicle owners or owners of everyday drivers, anyone who needs the ultimate engine. Super reliable and cost effective.

You need to call the folks at GotEngines.com and find out what engines are considered “big blocks”, both currently and in the past. Either way, we have you covered. It’s our job to keep the right engines in stock in several forms to make our customers happy.

We stock, rebuilt engines, remanufactured engines, new and remanufactured crate engines, used engines and custom rebuilt vintage or muscle car engines. Call now and get your engine ordered. We will have it shipped or delivered within 24 hours. Call 1-888-344-8044 right now.

Engines for Sale

So, who invented the motor car as we know it? You can see that in the beginning, inventors were willing to use what was available to patch together what they called the “horseless carriage”. Some of the inventors went on to invent some very ingenuous ideas and helped the motor car industry become what it is today. We owe those people a lot.

I am going to focus on cars with ICE’s. Gasoline, diesel and liquid propane. When I tell you who is considered responsible for the first “modern automobile” you may be surprised. Karl Benz. The year 1979 Benz patented the first engine. Of Daimler Benz/Mercedes Benz.

The first motor car was from Benz, and was called Motorwagen, built in 1885. The first American auto with an ICE was made in 1877 by George Sheldon of NY. However it never made it into production and was dropped. Then in 1883 the Duryea Brothers brought out the Duryea MotorWagon. It used a 4 horsepower single cylinder gasoline engine.

About the turn of the 20th century was when BIG brand cars names, you may recognize started to be developed. In 1902 production was started on the Oldsmobile using semi mass production techniques which would be refined and expanded by Henry Ford in 1914. Thus the beginning of the modern day assembly line assembled car.

Since the 1920s, nearly all cars have been mass-produced to meet market needs, so marketing plans often have heavily influenced automobile design. It was Alfred P. Sloan who established the idea of different makes of cars produced by one company, so buyers could “move up” as their fortunes improved.

From that point on the major Brands of cars were developed and production was implemented in methods similar to Henry Ford. For instance, a car could be fully assembled on an assembly line in the Ford factory in about 15 minutes. The techniques became standardized all over the world in practically no time.

Always in a state of development and improvement, the auto industry goes on today in super hi tech, computerized mass production facilities. I hope this provides a reasonable answer to the Title question. If you need more engine information, or are actually looking for a replacement engine, call GotEngines.com @ 1-888-344-8044. We have plenty of free advise and information, so call now.

How to Find an Oil Filter on Car Engine

I have begun to notice oil change kits in the auto parts house. A drain bucket, cheap oil filter wrench and a few rags and some hand cleaner. Of course this prompts the question from many non mechanical people of: how to find an oil filter on car engine.

I have to say it’s a good question. If it was still in the 60′s, 70′s or ’80′s, I might consider that a silly question. Engines were so simple and uncluttered, the oil filter was easy to find and remove. If nothing else, there were very few objects that even looked like an oil filter, so making a good guess was accurate almost 100 percent of the time.

Times have changed and even I have trouble finding the oil filter at times. With all of the clutter and components under the hood now, guessing is not a good option. It’s possible that there is a part on the engine that the oil filter wrench fits, but is not the oil filter.

I’m saying that on some cars the oil filter can’t be scene from ordinary view points. It’s on a portion of the engine where you have to “feel” it with your hands, without actually seeing it. With that thought in mind, it’s a good idea to ask someone qualified where the oil filter is. You certainly don’t want to unscrew the wrong device and have an expensive emergency, like a blown engine.

What I would recommend if you are not absolutely sure where your oil filter is, is to ask the parts person at the auto supply store. and don’t forget to ask what weight oil the car uses. And, allow me to recommend synthetic engine oil. Most of the nationally branded parts companies are happy to assist you with that type of info.

Another way to find out is to call GotEngines.com @ 1-888-344-8044. Although our main business is selling replacement engines, information is free, so don’t worry about it, take a minute to call and find out where your oil filer is.

The folks I have spoken to who are new to doing their oil changes tell me they feel very fulfilled knowing they did their own oil change, saved some money and kept their car engine maintenance up to date. Another item I noticed is that people who do their own maintenance have less engine problems and car problems in total.

Good luck, this is just one article in a series of helpful maintenance ideas that will add life to your car, cut down on unexpected problems and make your life better. Courtesy of GotEngines.com. @ 1-888-344-8044. Rebuilt engines, remanufactured engines, used engines, JDM engines, crate engines for sale. “Where our customers send their friends”.

It’s good to keep it somewhat clean for a couple of reasons. One is that it will run a bit cooler. Another is that it is easier to identify it if you need parts or another engine. Number three, it’s much easier to work on. It’s also easier to nail down an engine oil leak if the engine is not super dirty. Although, an engine oil leak will cut a pathway through the grease as it gravity forces it down. It’s the detergents in the oil that washes away the oil and forms a path. So that’s an easy leak to find. But you may want to clean the engine before you get to work.

I have to mention that there are environmental issues with just washing the grease off your engine onto the ground. It’s against the law and unethical to put oil in the dirt.

I don’t know what methods are the most popular anymore, but let me outline several ways to do it.

1. Hire, or rent a pressure washer or steam cleaner. Or perhaps one of the car detailing places has one. The issues here are to make sure the electrical parts are not blasted by the hot pressurized water, for fear of damaging them or the car not starting for a few hours. Best left for a pro.

2. Buy several cans of “Gunk” engine cleaner. It’s been around since I was a kid in the ’60′s. Gunk works OK. Sometimes it takes several tries to get the engine clean, and you are washing the oily dirt down the “drain” or into the “earth”, so think about that if you choose this method. It is the cheapest way to go.

3. Use your moms dish washing liquid. Forget about it. Dish liquid won’t cut the baked on, or 1/2″ deep grease. And your mom will get mad.

4. Drive to the car-wash and use their pressure equipment. This is a popular method, if you can get away with it. Most car washes don’t allow this anymore because they have to reuse the water for conservation purposes. In fact, you will probably be approached by the attendant and run off.

I think the best way to clean your engine properly is by someone who has the equipment and experience to do it. It won’t cost very much, and you won’t mess anything up or break the law.

If you are asking this question because you need to ID you engine because you need a replacement engine, then call the engine specialists, GotEngines.com @ 1-888-344-8044 and ask anything that’s on your mind about engines. Call now.

Some of the most common imported car brands such as Mazda, Nissan, Toyota, Acura, Honda, Saab, BMW and many more, build their engines in America, on American soils, paying American workers, who pay US sales tax and Social Security. Though they are physically made in America, they are still deemed imported engines.

Ford and Mazda, Chrysler and Mitsubishi share engines. So it can become confusing if you buy a Chrysler product with a Mitsubishi engine. Or a Ford product with a Mazda engine, or a Mazda with a Ford Duratec engine.

Deciphering the different engines, whether or not they are imported or not takes a professional. Call our staff to speak with someone who can demystify this with ease. Just have your registration with you. It has the VIN [vehicle identification number] on it.

Imported cars come from Japan [Nissan, Toyota, Honda], Germany [Porsche, Mercedes, BWM], France [Peugeot], Korea [Kia, Daewoo], Sweden [Volvo] and more places I’m not thinking of now.

We offer you CHOICES in replacement import engines. In order for us to successfully service the entire automotive and truck engine industry we must offer people all of the different engine replacement choices. Everyone has a different situation and may need a different solution.

Import engines, or foreign car engines can be purchased in Rebuilt forms and Remanufactured forms, both should end up having the same end result, do not become confused by fancy terminology, and if you are, make sure to ask us to explain.

Explain is our middle name. Our goal is to provide you with plenty of information so you understand if perhaps you need a low mileage used engine. We offer the best used engines available, guaranteed with an iron clad warranty. And for Japanese car owners, you have to ask about JDM engines.

Last, we sell new “crate engines”. The exact same engine the dealer would charge you twice as much for. It’s a terrific choice for anyone not willing to compromise. For maximum life, it’s actually the least expensive choice.

For more engine replacement talk, make the call to GotEngines.com, your import engine specialist. Buy an engine with pure value built into it and a peace of mind guarantee. Call 1-888-344-8044 right now.

I can’t tell you what size engine you have. There are many ways to determine the engine size. Ranging from the ridiculous to the most efficient ways. Several ridiculous methods are as such. But first, The truth is, before we can recommend what engine is in your best interests, we need the VIN number.

You can Remove the cylinder heads on your engine, and make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, then fill the cylinder with water to the very top. Measure how much water you put in the cylinder, than multiply that by how many cylinders of said engine, and you will have the amount of liters in size. Remember, most engines are measured in liters now a days, which can be converted to cubic inches or centimeters.

That is silly and an extraordinary amount of work. I’ll tell you the easiest way in a minute. Identification numbers are metal stamped on the engine block. Usually on the front edge of one of the row/s of cylinder/s on the front of the motor block. Sometimes they are really hard to find because grease covers the small numbers and makes them almost impossible to find.

OK, you can usually locate the size of your engine by looking at it. Something like [as an example] you see numbers like 5.7 liters, 5.7L, 350 cubic inches, it will be on a sticker on the valve cover or radiator cover [right in front of you].

If you really want to make it easy, just call GotEngines.com and ask them. All you need is your registration. It has the VIN [vehicle identification number] on it. The 8th digit is the engine. Call 1-888-344-8044 and ask one of the salesman what engine size is in your car. It’s free. We don’t bite.

If you need a replacement engine than it makes more sense to call GotEngines.com. We are the premium engine supplier for professionals. We can supply you too with the right size engine in any form. Call now. 1-888-344-8044

Vortec Engines for Sale

Now in the 4th generation of production, Vortec expanded it’s lineup and makes inline 4 cylinder engines, inline 5 cylinder engines [model Vortec 3500, Vortec 3700], inline 6 cylinder engines, V6 engines, and V8 engines. Even if you are not sure you if you need a Vortec Engine for Sale, call an expert first, GotEngines.com @ 1-888-344-8044.

Vortec is used in all lines of GM cars and trucks now and is still in production. The line up includes nearly 100 different sizes and variants. If you need to replace a Vortec engine, some of the decision lies in the age of the vehicle and what it’s intended purposes are.

I’m a big fan of remanufactured engines. Especially for the older model vehicles that are older than 10 years old. Realistically speaking, as a vehicle reaches 10 years in age, used engine options become less worthy because of A. too many miles on it. B. too expensive.

A remanufactured engine is very cost effective for an older vehicle and because it lasts a long time and guarantees trouble free performance with proper maintenance, it becomes a very affordable option. During the remanufacturing process, every updated component is used, and several updates are made to supply a better engine to you.

Used engines are popular with the newer truck crowd because we have exclusive access to the lowest mileage, pre tested used engines on the market. Being able to buy a legitimate good used engine is a terrific value. It’s worth the call to find out more. 1-888-344-8044. None of our used engines are ‘junk yard’ motors, those don’t meet our specifications.

Of course some folks want a brand new engine. Of those folks, usually it’s a commercial fleet service or business owner who can’t afford down time. Some regular customers want a crate engine simply for the sake of reliability and peace of mind. It’s hard to put a price tag on ‘peace of mind’.

Some of the RPO [regular production option] codes are as such:
LM4 [vin "P"], L33 [vin "B"], LH6, LY5, LMG, LC9, Vortec 5700, L31, LQ4, LQ9 [vin "N"]. That is only a small sample. Have your registration handy for fast identification.

Now it’s time to make the call to GotEengines.com, your one stop engine recyclers and remanufactured engine supply company. Call 1-888-344-8044 now and speak with an intelligent human being about what interests you the most.