I spent a lot of time in Part -1 of project maintenance on my Buick Road Master Wagon talking about myself and the car. So lets talk more about the procedures I mentioned, and not forget that there are many things to check and adjust when the car is off the jack stands too.

“Once it is safely jacked up this is what I’m going to do to the bottom side of the car.”

1. Change the rear differential fluid.

2. Change the transmission fluid and filter with a new pan gasket.

3. Change the engine oil and filter. Especially if you are a LOW-MILEAGE DRIVER…

4. Lubricate the front end, driveshaft u-joints (if equipped with zirk fittings).

5. Spray the chassis, inner fenders, parking brake cables and body bushings with WD-40 or the like.

6. Look for leaks of any kind.

7. Take a look at the brakes when I rotate the tires.

1. Remove the differential cover, inspect the fluid that comes out for metallic contamination, ferrous or not. Put a new gasket or use the hi-temperature black silicone to reseal the cover to the differential, then fill it with factory approved synthetic differential lubricant. Don’t forget the posi-traction lube if you have posi.

2. Drop the transmission pan and inspect it for wear. If all looks good then I will put a new factory filter in it and clean the transmission pan so I can put it back up with a new gasket. Cork is preferred, take it from a pro. then refill it with factory authorized synthetic automatic transmission fluid.

3. Change the engine oil and filter using a synthtic engine oil and a quality brand of engine oil filter.

Note: there is no excuse for not disposing of waste fluids properly. Most repair shops will dispose of it and some parts places will too. Every city has a central drop off station for this purpose..

4. Do a grease job, preferably with a synthetic grease like Mobil 1 on anything on the car with a grease fitting…

5. I like to spray the chassis with a combo lubricant that is water resistant, but WD-40 works well too. I spray the rubber body bushings, the park brake cable, front end bushings, brackets and clamps (so they come loose easily if they need removing in the future), fuel lines and just about everything I can see. I also spray between the inner and outer fenders so rust will not accumulate in places that will ’spell’ out, you got a serious rust problem too.

6. Look for engine oil, power steering, transmission, coolant, rear differential and anything else that may be leaking. Get them fixed, the car is communicating with you, “fix my leaks”..

7. While it is off the ground. Rotate the tires, check the tire date code, examine the brake pads and or shoes for wear and look at your rubber and metal brake lines for damage. Remember to take a peek at the brake calipers and wheel cylinders for brake fluid leaks..

This pretty much covers auto maintenance from the bottom. If you see something that does not look copy, then take it too a competent repair shop to get it fixed. GotEngines.com blog has another post coming soon on what to check when the car is back on the ground. Until then, Enjoy.

Part-1: Project maintenance on my Buick Road Mater Wagon…